Mumtaz, the flavours of India
First of all, I have to declare that Indian is the only cuisine that when thought of, actually makes my mouth water! Salivating whilst writing isn’t a great look.
But needs must.
An invite to the newly reopened Mumtaz, perfectly situated on the front line of Puerto Banus on Good Friday was an easy sell! Our entire editorial team conveniently and collectively suggested that it should be visited “en masse” as some sort of staff holiday! We ended up conducting a few rounds of rock, paper, scissors to determine the two lucky winners of this latest treat, both of whom immediately and gleefully proceeded to the Port in self-congratulatory style.
With a gorgeous new look following its renovation, Mumtaz has managed to retain its iconic charm while embracing a modern, stylish elegance that elevates the entire dining experience.
And speaking of upgrades, the menu has been completely reimagined by newly appointed Chef Nikhil Mahale, whose culinary journey from London to Barcelona has brought bold flair and precision to the kitchen. His refined yet playful approach to traditional Indian flavours is clearly evident throughout the menu.
Once seated, India inspired cocktail creations were duly despatched. Poppadom’s served with divine dipping sauces followed suit, taking the edge of our hunger pangs just in time for the arrival of some truly spectacular starters.
First up was Amritsari Fish Pakora.
Crispy, succulent and flaky, these mouth size morsels of fried fish were perfectly seasoned with spices and crowned with pickled mayonnaise.
The Lobster and Tiger Prawn Tandoori kebabs tasted as good as they looked! Minced Prawn mixed with meaty chunks of fresh lobster smoked in the tandoor was worth the visit alone. Hints of charcoal added another dimension to the dish and was just enough to allow the natural sweetness of the seafood to shine through. Visually stunning with a taste to match.
To the curry! no visit to an Indian restaurant can be considered complete without a proper “Ruby Murray”. We chose two.
Monkfish Moilee Curry.
The silky smooth, coconut-based sauce housed hints of curry leaves and mustard seeds, whilst the meaty nature of the monkfish provided the substance of this fragrant, soul-satisfying curry.
This was proving to be an afternoon of inspired choices!
The chicken Tikka Jalfrezi also ticked all the right curry boxes. The chicken was charred to smoky perfection and nestled in a tangy yet tasty sauce with bell peppers and onions. The heat was assertive without being overpowering. A classic dish... done right.
Of course no curry is complete without rice and naan. The Saffron Pilau Rice saw each grain perfectly cooked providing a colourful companion for the Peshwari Naan. Although this naan is my permanent bread of choice I had never experienced anything quite like Mumtaz’s interpretation before, the Peshwari Kulcha Naan was a dessert in disguise. Stuffed with a sweet mix of coconut, nuts (literally bursting with pistachio nuts) and dried fruit, the naan was both airy and ever so slightly crispy at the same time. A perfect contrast to the spicy mains.
I couldn’t recall ever ordering a dessert in an Indian before, but the Rassmalai Saffron Tres Leches sounded intriguing. A creative East-meets-West dessert fusion saw the rassmalai soaked in saffron-infused milk, layered like a Tres leches cake, light, floral and not overly sweet. This was the work of a genius.
If, whilst reading this review your mouth was watering and you’re also a lover of uninterrupted views of La Concha, the Mediterranean and some pretty swanky yachts, I would highly recommend that the next time you “fancy a Ruby”, you choose Mumtaz. Indian food... done differently.
Puerto Banús front line
+34 952 812 090
mumtaz-puertobanus.com